Electricity, Anyone?
To have a successful household on
Swan's Island, one should be ready for an electrical outage at any moment. One
can do this by laying in a supply of candles, keeping the lanterns dusted, and
remember that many parts of the world don't have any electricity to go out. This
will be an attempt to keep your good humor. Oh, and keep a fresh jug of water
handy.
It is a good lesson, I think, to have
this modern adversity: complacent American could do well to think on how he is
dependent on a process of nature fed to him by a complicated maze of wire and
people. If you have never had the power out at your home, think now on how your
house works, and imagine the power is off on morning.
Most likely there will be no water.
That means no showers. That means no flushing either. It also means there will
be no morning coffee, (no water, no stove). It means you can't make toast. It
means you can't watch TV to catch the weather. It means that you can't do the
wash, (and it is the first time in days that the sun has been out!).
It means you'll have to do some things "by hand. It means that you'll have
to resort to peanut butter and jelly for lunch. Can't go to the restaurant,
...that's right, they don't have electricity
either! It means that the grocery store might have the doors locked because it
is can't run registers and the aisles are dark anyway. The list gets to be
pretty long... and then you try to go back to the sink for a drink, and whoops!
no water. You just can't remember that the house works on electricity and that
it is electricity that hauls the water from the well and makes the whole place
work. It seems like you are wired in to the system
somehow.
Swan's Islanders are sort of new to
the electricity business, but being islanders, they know how to cope.
Electricity came to the island in the early 50's and a lot of people remember
the "good 'ole days" pretty well and
they get by fine with maybe a kerosene end-burner and patience when the power is
out.
Some would say that the summer months
have been plagued with inconveniences: out of the ordinary heat in June was
replaced by almost three weeks of fog in July which was followed by more HEAT
and the ferry breaking down and shrinking. And some thought it was too funny
that the electricity went out during the annual Electric Cooperative's meeting
(no, it wasn't a joke). It wasn't at all funny when they returned to darkened
homes where they couldn't bathe or brush their teeth for a good night's sleep I
would say that there is a certain beauty to bathing with one jug of water and
cooking with one jug of water and going to bed without listening to the sink
drip or the whir of the electric meter ticking off the kilowatts. August,
1988
The End of Summer 1988.
The Libby has been sailing with a
steady stream of summer people bound away to their winter lives. Every day there
are long waves of good-bye as friends disappear around Fir Point headed for Bass
Harbor, and the world beyond. Some of us heave a sigh of relief, but some of us
are already longing for the summer of '89.
The island school children waited
sadly for their first bus ride to school on September 6th, but later in the day
the school yard was alive with happy faces. The kids broke in new sets of school
clothes, while mothers got out the season's first patches at home. It will be an
exciting year for the island's school, because plans for a new school are
literally on the drawing board in Ellsworth and the selectmen are looking for a
suitable site of 5 to 10 acres. A new school will be built in perhaps two years,
but there is a lot of planning to do now. The teachers are excited to think that
they might actually have room to put things, not to mention the "large "
student body of three years from now which is expected to be 60. The Planning
Board and others are already hoping to use the "old" school house for
offices and meetings.
The fishermen, always quiet about
their work, are subdued after the wildly wonderful season of last summer. This
year they set about the work of paying for the new boats, cars and trucks they
bought with last year's profits. The -Fisherman's
Cooperative, which invested heavily in new buildings that included an icehouse,
has been busily hatching a plan to bring more work onto the island, but the
manager refuses to discuss plans with me. There have been meetings for all
concerned, but I've always been at other meetings, so you'll have to stayed
tuned to see just what the fishy mystery is...
The end of summer crashed headlong
into fall in a rush with trees blazing red here and there and with cold night
winds demanding that flannel nightgowns come out
of the lower bureau drawers. A sense of urgency fills the air: there are water
systems to close down or guard against the winter winds and storm windows should
be repainted, a supply of precious sand and salt is stored for the Town roads,
winter clothes should be examined for repairs and boots should be as well...these
are the jobs that somehow were put off, and will be again until the last
possible moment, when it will almost be too late. Never mind. The seasons come
and go with or without us and whether we are ready for them or not. It will be
winter soon and we can revel in the certain play of light on the harbor water
that is not seen in any other season. Like Steve Harriman
says, he doesn't wish time away, he likes all the seasons. I always mark the
occasion of the first snow-fall as well as the first time the lawns are mowed. I
miss my summer friends, but I relish the winter fire. September, 1988
Seaside Hall Museum
The museum began its summer season on July 2 and expects
to welcome hundreds of visitors to its exhibits. New in collections are two
glass butter churns for the kitchen area and a collection of photos from the
20's from the Mohler family of their first summers
on Swan's Island.
One of the museum's first visitors of
the season was Lester Staples who confirmed stories told on the island about
him: Lester is famous for his love of dogs and when he was young, he would bring
his dog Rover with him to school where the dog would sit beside him at his desk.
Lester brought lunch for the two of them and one day ate Rover's sandwich by
mistake!
Older folks remember bringing
potatoes to cook in coffee cans on the woodstove
during the winter months at the Minturn school. There are several photos on
display of the schools in Atlantic, Minturn and Swan's Island and these never
fail to amuse relatives and friends who discover some familiar face in a group
of little children from way back when.
Also new on display this year is an
album of photos put together by the Swan's Island Consolidated School under an
Innovative Grant from the state. The school was able to purchase a video camera,
three 35mm cameras and two tape recorders with the grant money. During the
course of the school year, K-8th grade took photos of what they thought were
important island buildings and places as well as workers who were building a
summer house during the winter. The children also conducted interviews of island
workers as well as some of the elderly. Their work has been donated to the
museum which now has the album of their photos on display. The museum is now
looking for a donor to contribute a television and VCR that would be used to
view the videos the children put together and which would be put to good use
during the winter months at the library.
The museum continues to solicit items
of interest to add to its collection. A special call has been put out for older
items relating to lobster fishing. The museum will also start a collection of
buoys from all the island fishermen fishing in 1989.
Museum hours are Tuesday through Sunday, from 12:00 to 3:00.
SWAN'S ISLAND EDUCATIONAL SOCIETY, SWAN'S ISLAND'S LIBRARY AND MUSEUM CONGRATULATES ISLESBORO ON ITS BICENTENNIAL! HAVE A WONDERFUL CELEBRATION! July, 1989
The Glorious 4th on Swan's Island
When Melita
Staples found out that the Odd Fellow's had not planned a 4th of July picnic
this year, she took it upon herself to organize an island picnic through the
Methodist Church. On short notice, she solicited funds and the baking of
cookies and other goodies for sale at a games and hot dog party at the Recreation
Hall in Atlantic.
For days she worried about the
weather, and on the 4th the day proved''iffy",
but good enough for a few hundred islanders and friends to turn out for the fun.
Games of tug-of-war were got up...men against the
women and kids against the adults and real fair and square tugs too! The egg
toss and baseball kept a lot of people happy that day.
The fireworks had been shot off a few
days earlier when it was judged that the weather cooperating. Sure enough, the
night was almost perfect. A few pleasure boats and working fishermen from other
ports came over to Burnt Coat to catch the show. Though the beautiful
bombardment lasted a very few minutes, most everyone enjoyed the excitement of
it.
Melita Staples enjoyed herself that
night too and on the night of the 4th, I'm sure she slept soundly, satisfied
that the island had had an all around good holiday. July, 1989
Swan's Island Water Committee
Robert Gerber, a private hydrologist whose company is in southern Maine, met with the Water Committee (WC) on July 14 and a small group of interested citizens. Gerber had reviewed the WC data base and was impressed with the three years of work that the WC had done gathering information on well levels and water quality. Gerber explained his work and how other towns in Maine have used the information to plan for development.The WC will consider mapping certain high-risk areas so that land owners and Town planners will have better information in the future. July, 1989
Swans Island Electric Coop Buys Heating Oil Business
Notice of a special meeting of the
Board of Trustees of the S.I. Electric Coop, (EC), went out in Septembers
electric bills and called members to the Odd Fellow's Hall on the night of
September 14 for the purpose of voting on the question of whether the Electric
Coop should buy Kent's Wharfs heating oil business.
President Brad Ames explained that
because of Swan's Island's size and remoteness, the operation of the EC,
"Tends to be expensive and inefficient". Manager David Honey outlined
the ways that the EC has tried to utilize their expertise and equipment: rent of
the chipper and bucket truck for trimming trees and setting flag poles and the
hire of LeMoine and Turner, employees of the EC, to run the equipment, has
earned much needed income for the small cooperative's general fund. The EC
already has large fuel oil tanks, (that were needed for the old generators), in
place on their property near the Town Wharf at Minturn, so a fuel oil business
seemed a natural expansion of their services to the community, and a way,
"To make money", Mr. Ames said.
Discussion from the 82 members
present, (with 43 proxies), expressed the concern that because Kent's Wharf was
going out of business, there would be only one heating oil
business left on the island, and that there
was a need for competition in this
area. $15,000.00, paid over a three year period for Kent's Wharfs two
trucks, would be financed by the owner, William Atwood
of Sprucehead. Manager Honey said that separate
books would have to be kept and that the EC would have to show its plans to the
Rural Electrification Administration and the Public Utilities Commission for
their approval.
When the question came to a vote,
there were 107 votes in favor and 16 against. The second article on a vote,
"to see if the members would limit the Trustees and the management to only
operating a business strictly related to the purchasing and sale of
electricity", produced 10 votes in favor and 114 in the negative.
September, 1989
Save the Seaside Hall!
The Seaside Hall museum in
Atlantic was kept from sliding into the waters of Mackerel Cove, when Trustee of
the Swan's Island Educational Society, Gwen May,
sounded the alarm. Mason Daniel Barnes was asked to assess the situation and an
emergency meeting was held in mid December. Because the building is owned by the
town, the Selectmen were consulted and on January l, Mr. Barnes and his men, Tod
Smith and Everett Robert, began the work of cribbing the building. Two days were
spent under the structure which was built, literally, on the shore. The work
secured the Seaside Hall for the winter; Barnes will submit two proposals for
the more permanent work that needs to be done to save the building.
The Seaside Hall was built by the
Atlantic Improvement Association in 1905 for ''educational and moral
purposes". It was used as a gathering place for residents of Atlantic.
Dances, plays and suppers were put on, and at onetime, the island library was
housed there. In 1986, Swan's Island's bicentennial year, the Swan's Island
Educational Society (SIES) installed its museum collections there and has been
active in that building ever since. In February, the SIES will launch a drive to
fund the work that needs to be done. The last meeting of the Atlantic
Improvement Association was held in March of 1980 in which they resolved to give
the land and hall to the Town. In 1986, the townspeople expressed their wish
that the building, and other old buildings be saved. In 1990, let the Seaside
Hall improve! January. 1990
Decade Review - Swan's Island
Ten years is a long time and it is
hard to remember what has happened. Unlike Hans
Borei, I do no keep
records, only sketchy personal files
in which I pile letters, stories, poems etc. for my own amusement. Trying to
review here for you the past ten years of the
town's life, I can only make a short sort of hit list of things that stand out
to me. Here goes!
Land values rise and islanders find
it even more difficult to call home. Summer people tend not to build camps
and cottages as in times past, but build real houses with indoor plumbing. The
Planning Board finds that the Shoreland
land Subdivision Ordinances are being pushed to the limits.
Fishermen
have some bad years, but these are offset by their
conservation measure in the form of a trap limit. In the latter part of the decade,
their plan pays off. There are new fiberglass boats in the harbor, new cars and
trucks cruising the roads, and new couches in living rooms.
The
expanded tax base allows the town to "make new" what they had had to
''make do" with: the fire department purchases modern equipment and a
new school project was begun. Roads were improved.
Though
the fisheries expands, one wharf goes out of business.
The Selectmen appoint town committees
to address the problems of solid waste, water and housing. The temper of the
town slowly begins to address the challenges of the changing times.
The island's aging stands of spruce
and fir begin to come down; every year a new block of sunlight opens in the
forest. The deer population increases as open space appears, but by the end of
the 80's, many are found dead from starvation in a bitter cold snap. Eagles and osprey
become more common. Seagulls become a problem at
the Quarry Pond. Eel grass, having disappeared some decades ago, begins growing
in limited areas. Rabbits increase.
Vital statistics - 1980 to 1989- There
were 63 births, 64 deaths and 60 marriages. In 1989 there were 48 dogs
registered. January. 1990
Swan's Island Library-Inherits Atlantic School House
The Swan's
Island Educational Society learned recently that Minna
Geddes, who died in February,
left the Atlantic school house and one acre of land to the society. It will
be a year before the paper work has been completed
and most likely months after before the building
can be put in order for use. The
Trustees will meet this
month to discuss the course of action.
The library's
growing collections and need for meeting space
could be well housed in the old school. There is
potential for the housing of a genealogical
collection which will grow because of the formation
of a regular group Interested in the subject. (The
Grace Bischof collection
will be the center piece
in this area.)
The building has two large
downstairs rooms, with various hallways, fireplace
and bath; upstairs are at least three other rooms,
bath and a large open area that Mrs. Geddes used for her painting
studio. The Geddes also had a stairway
installed to the bell tower from which one can see
wonderful views!
The Trustees are well aware that a
move to the old school will be costly, but well
worth the effort! The Atlantic school is one of
only three old buildings
(excepting churches) left on Island and it would
be an interesting venture that would blend the
past with the present. April, 1990
Swan's Island School News
Swan's Island school children,
parents and friends were invited to write their
names in the cement which
will be under the stage area of the new Atlantic
school. Jamy Lasell,
site manager. Instructed the children
in safety on the construction
site, gave them large nails
with which to write,
and lead them down to make history.
Mr. Lasell told the children
that ) their names
would never be seen again, but everyone
seemed to enjoy the Importance of the moment.
Principal
Kim Colbeth took her
third, fourth and fifth
graders on a tour of the unfinished
building. Junior
High Teacher Helen Sanborn
lingered by the window
In her class room-to-be and was thrilled by the space she will
have in the future.
The three green house windows
that were added to the design were of great
Interest to all. Donated by a memorial fund for Norman Bailey,
each class will be able to have its own Indoor garden project, a project Mr. Bailey
would have appreciated.
The school children
participated in a Bike-a-Thon
on May 12 to raise money for St. Jude
Children's Hospital.
The People Interested In Kids (
PIK) group organized
the ride and served hot dogs and treats to the riders. The one and a half mile
ride goes around the Atlantic Loop. 29 children
participated in the
two hour event. Carroll Staples and Fritz
Gardener were able to go 13 times around for a
total of 19 ½ miles each!
There was a small group of five year olds who did
two laps and Betsy Wheaton, a special
education student, walked In the event.
The riders had a rougher time
this year because the wind
was against them, but they did
the best that they could and of course they had a great time!
May, 1990
Prehistoric Swan's
Island
One Man's Treasure is Another Man's Trash
The Abbe
Museum's Field School Week on Swan's Island
brought an interesting group of people to City Point
in Minturn during
the last week in May. A retired
MIT engineer, computer technician,
housewife, scientist,
nurse, among others came together out of a common interest
In Maine's prehistoric
Indians and for archaeology.
The fourteen participants
were members of the Abbe Museum of Bar Harbor who answered the call for
volunteers to work a midden site, or shell heap, at City Point
in Minturn. Dr. Steven Cox, archaeologist
with the Center for Northern Studies based in
Wolcott, Vermont, and Research Adjunct of the Maine
State Museum gave an introductory talk
to volunteers on the night before
the work was to begin. Dr.
Cox would be the dig's
resident expert. He
outlined the techniques that would be used to work the site,
such as mapping and labeling in a methodical
way. Some volunteers had done the exacting work before, but for many others this
would be their first
experience. Also present that night was Bill
Cheney who was one of the owners whose land would be excavated over the next
five days. Mr. Cheney, and later his wife Kendra, would spend a few hours at the
dig. My sister, Kaniaulono Meyer of Cincinnatil
was the other owner of the midden site on the shores of Burnt Coat Harbor.
Kaniau's house provided shelter for most of the volunteers.
Though Abbe Museum's director, Diane
Kopec, lay sick at my house for a couple of days, the work went well under the
direction of Dr. Cox and the more experienced of the volunteers. The site was
marked off in five, one meter squares and the sod carefully taken up and set
aside for replacement later. The sections were worked with small trowels. Each
thin layer was carefully and slowly removed, taken up by dust pan, placed in
boxes with wire mesh bottoms which were then shaken so that the black earth fell
onto a tarp. The debris from each hole would be replaced in its original square
at the end of the project.
The untrained eye misses completely
the significant jewels revealed on the mesh by
this process: tiny pieces of pottery, fish ribs, vertebra, stone flakes, all
seem to be amorphous among the millions
of pieces of shattered ancient clam shell and dark earth. The nasty weather
during the week also made the careful fingering of the debris difficult. Frozen
digits picked at the bits in the screen: in the first layers, few finds made the
hands even colder! As the worked progressed, patterned shards were found and
excitement warmed the group at last.
The days went by and the past was
peeled away, layer by layer. Dr. Cox noted that the shards that were found
seemed to be in a style identified as being about two thousand years old. Pieces
from three separate pots were eventually found. Small canine teeth of some
animal that had been pierced as for a necklace were also found. A large bone
measuring some 14 inches was uncovered. Scores of other bone fragments from
various animals and fish were carefully put away
in plastic bags along with
specifics about
location in the site.
The larger discoveries were carefully revealed,
left in place, mapped and finally
released and stored in labeled plastics
bags. A large pot fragment was found, but it was almost a shadow of itself;
after being carefully measured, photographed and
mapped. it disintegrated
while being lifted
into a container. Stones that were exposed were
brushed clean, mapped and then discarded. These
may have been fireplace stones or perhaps house
foundations. Dr. Cox would make a study of the artifacts,
photographs and other data in his lab in
Wolcott, Vermont. He would write a paper on the City
Point site and finally
the materials and results of the study would be housed at the Abbe
Museum in Bar Harbor. While
volunteers worked the site, Bettes
Swanton kept the home fires
burning at my sister's
house. Just up the hill
from the dig. Warm,
wonderful meals were produced for the weary
workers. At night, the kitchen
was filled with
smells of cooking and the sound of happy explorers
home from the field.
One night,
the Swan's Island Library hosted a slide
presentation by Dr. Cox on his
research of other archaeological sites
In Maine, notably the Goddard
and Fly Point sites
In the Brooklyn area. Cox presented an overview
of what is known about habitation
by Indians in Maine.
Red Paint Indians left
dramatic ceremonial
spear points in burial sites
in Maine, these dating
some seven thousand years in the past. Other tribes produced pottery, fish
hooks, arrow heads and other tools which the tell
scientists how the Indians
lived.
Dr. Cox noted that some ancient
sites dating seven
thousand years ago, are now under water. One such site,
off of Deer Isle, is twenty-five feet underwater and was discovered
by fishermen. Dr. Cox and others made scuba dives
at the site, but conditions were very poor and finds
hard to come by.
Conditions
on land can also be poor. Dr. Cox made this point
perfectly clear. His audience was stunned by his
smooth delivery of a "punch line "in
the form of slides taken at our own Roderick's
Head where a very large midden has been totally destroyed by artifact
seekers. The slide showed.
in fact, a broken shovel lying in the midden.
(A screen was also found in the woods.) Dr. Cox explained
that the importance of the artifact is revealed in
its location in the site with
regard to strata, which is indicative
of era. The appearance of the soils themselves, the stratigraphy,
the placement of stones (as for fireplaces),
bone fragments, are very important to the study of
ancient man. Most amateurs are looking
for arrow heads and other tools and simply dig for
them, destroying the site in
the process. These amateurs miss completely objects
of equal value to the archaeologist: bone, small
pieces of pottery, different types of stone are discarded
in the useless heaps in many areas of Swan's
Island, Roderick's Head being a classic
example of a plundered site.
There has been a kind of tradition
on Swan's Island: islanders have always dug in the middens and one hears many
stories of the artifacts found on the island over
the years. Thirty years ago, an amateur excited island children
by telling them that the Indians
had been seven feet tall and were cannibals! This
man took them on digging
expeditions all over the island.
(I have been told that his collection
was thrown away at the dump after he died.) There
are many islanders who have impressive
collections stored away in
attics: useless mementos now of a race of man who
lived thousands of years before us and left tantalizing
traces of their living along our shores.
Abbe Museum's volunteers, who labored
in the cold and damp for five days, had carefully
opened the earth at City Point and lovingly examined
every particle. Behind them, the ocean danced dark
and cold. In and out. Rain
fell. Time passed. Another day added on to the
past. Standing on the hill,
one could imagine the centuries peeled away, the
Indians encamped nearby. But here the image is
hazy: if only we knew more about them, wouldn't
that be wonderful? On the last afternoon, the five
pits were empty. Final
measurements and photos taken, the soil and shell
was tipped back into each hole from whence it
came, firmed under foot and its sod replaced. What
would our lives look like
two thousand years hence after a five day dig.?
June 1990
School News
Graduation
times are very important
rites of passage for islanders. It is most poignant
for eighth graders, because going into
the next grade sometimes means leaving home for the first
time. Such is the case for one of the two
graduates this year: Nicole Bishop
will be going to Fryeburg Academy
in the fall. While the other graduate, Kathleen Dzleyzk,
will be going to Mt. Desert High School nearby,
she will have to live
off island as well. The transition
sometimes is hard on students and parents, but there
are exciting
possibilities too: students can participate in
sports and music that they otherwise would have to
miss if they commuted
daily.
This
year's ceremonies at the Odd Fellow's Hall should
be noted as the last time
the hall will be used) for
the purpose. By this time
next year, the island will
be celebrating the first classes to have graduated from the new school in Atlantic.
Generations of islanders have graduated in the Odd
Fellow's Hall. New traditions
are fast assimilated by new generations
but for many years to come there will be those who
will remember with
fondness having graduated in the old Odd Fellow's
Hall: "Remember when?"
The children
graduated on June 6 and on the morning of the 7th,
the school picnic was to take place. The skies
were gray and threatening when I arrived at
school. The Junior high
kids were chanting.
"No rain! No rain!"
A few drops fell, but not seriously. By nine
o'clock the decision
was made to go ahead as planned and the school erupted with
joyous noise.
All the
kids were put onto the bus, the teachers and I
followed in cars, headed for the Fine Sand Beach.
The picnic food itself would arrive by lobster
boat later. The town had cleared the fallen trees
along the path and the children made quick
work of the hike into the
beach.
By the time
I arrived on the sand they were in bathing suits
and generally cavorting
as if it were high
summer. Some of the older kids set to digging an
immense hole for the after-lunch game of tug-of-war. Others made castles and
moats and collections of beach things. As the
hours slipped by, parents with younger siblings
arrived through the woods and the food was landed at last.
Spencer Joyce's boat.
Daily Bread had made a beeline to the beach to save the party from starvation.
Fires were not permitted (and will not be allowed
this summer in some areas in the north part of the
island), so mothers had sent dozens of sandwiches and salads to feed the hungry
group. Eventually, the sun came out, but only stayed for
awhile: the kids didn't
seem to notice as they went about the business
of being children. The next
day, kids and teachers cleaned up
and packed for the move in September, happy to
have finished and looking
forward to the future. June 1990
Library Lecture
The Swan's Island Library begins
Its Lecture Series on July 13 with a slide and music presentation by lver W.
Lofving entitled, "Nature and Tyranny in Central America." On July 20
Bud Lyle will present "America Discovers Vinland", an essay in support
of Scandinavian discovery. Marvin Mirsky will present "The Bible as
Literature: Some Introductory Notes" on July 27.
On August 3, Lynn Herndon will give
us, "Readings: Running the Gumat." Lynn will read from Maine authors
as well as from others. "James Swan" will be Molly Beard's topic on
August 10 and on August 17, Ruth Grierson will give us "Trinidad's Natural
History." On the morning of August 23, Bob Kennedy will lead a "Bird
Walk". Gary Hoyle of the Maine State Museum will present "Development
of a Museum Wildlife Exhibit".
The last presentation of the season
will be on August 30 with Enrico Bonati with "The Formation of the Ocean
Floor." Most lectures are on Friday nights this year and will begin at
7:30. Kennedy's Morning Bird Walk will be on a Thursday as will be Bonati's
August 30 lecture. The Library is in great need of
donations this year and asks for your support. July, 1990
Swan's Island Planning Board Denies Building on Gooseberry Island
How many of us would love to have
a house on a little island off the coast of Maine? Wouldn't it be nice to be the
sole inhabitant? You could build a cottage and tuck it up by the spruces and
spend the rest of your life exploring the coves and deer paths on your Island.
Gooseberry Island is a little island
south west of Hockamock Head, but is not the sort of island that would
accommodate your fantasy. There are no trees on the windswept landscape
and no deer paths either. Gooseberry is one of the many tiny
islands in Maine
where no one goes because it is
hard to make a landing and there really isn't much
to see, unless you are a scientist making
a study of birds or isolated
wild places. The earth there is spongy and wet enough in places for cat-tails
and blue flag. Most of the year, the island is washed by sea and wind. For
centuries Gooseberry has provided shelter for nesting
eiders, gulls and terns. It has been a perfect habitat for them because it is
an inhospitable place for man
and and beast in 1986, the Maine Dept.
of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife
published The Penobscot Bay Conservation Plan,
a work of the Endangered and Nongame Wildlife Project
that identified
important sites used by marine
mammals and birds and recommend guidelines for
their protection. This study listed Swan's Island's Gooseberry Island as Class C,
an area of local significance because of
colonial-nesting seabirds, common elder,
black-backed gulls, herring gulls and terns. Management guidelines suggest that,
"nesting islands must be made available to the birds in an undeveloped and
undisturbed state."
The Planning Boards has over the
years made revisions to its ordinances
and in fact has changed zoning in some areas.
Every year the board finds that some loophole has opened up or that something
has been overlooked. The fact that Gooseberry Island is presently zoned residential
came as a shock to islanders who were suddenly confronted with the possibility
of a two and one half story house with a thousand
square feet of deck, an addition, an accessory building
and a pool.
"It doesn't make any sense!
Why would anyone want to go out there? That place is for the birds!
It would be a wanton destruction of nature! What a
foolish thing to think
of!" These were some of the comments coming
from islanders who have spent a life time
looking at Gooseebrry from the lighthouse, sailing
or fishing by it in all seasons. On November 1 the Planning Board met with
the prospective owner to review
the application. The
party had not yet purchased the island, but rather
planned to do so upon approval from the board of their
plan. The board noted that the present zoning was
a mistake and cited
the management guidelines
of the Penobscot Bay conservation Plan that should
have been taken into account.
Several members of the community
voiced their grave concerns. Concerns for the island
itself were expressed as well as for the people who would try to build.
Experienced boaters explained that conditions
of the seas would make Gooseberry a very difficult
place to land, much less land a vast array of supplies.
One selectman said that he fished
the waters around the Island and knew that the winds
In summer would prevent someone casually sitting
on the deck for very long. The selectman also noted that there were many families
of duck that used Gooseberry Island.
Many examples of practical
difficulties
were discussed in an attempt to show that certain
disaster would result from their
efforts. The Board cited the Shoreland Zoning
Ordinance Purposes that asks the board to protect
birds and their habitat,
prevent incompatible
land use, control land use, conserve limited
resources and significant
natural areas, anticipate
and respond to impacts of development In shoreland areas.
Letters from Regional
Wildlife Biologist
Thomas L. Schaeffer
and Island Institute's Philip
Conkling were read. Schaeffer's
letters noted that, "While regulatory provisions
under the Natural Resources Protection Act are
currently in the process of being developed.
It is predictably certain
that this type of proposal (for Gooseberry Island)
would be evaluated as wholly incompatible."
In the end the board denied
the application
because," Gooseberry Island is a significant
wildlife habitat designated by the state and
should there fore be protected from development which would change the character
of the Island."
Members of the Planning Board as well
as concerned citizens are working on a complete review of Swan's Island zoning
with regard to the protection of wildlife and natural areas. They hope that they
will have something for the next town meeting In March that will protect the
character of Swan's Island. November, 1990
Christmas Seasonings
Christmas time
on Swan's Island is much like Christmas in many other small towns across
America. Churches have their sales and luncheons to raise funds and to help us
with shopping and the school puts on a party and musical where Santa Claus gives
out presents. On Swan's Island, though, Santa gives a present to every child
from newborn to eighth grade. This tradition was begun by the Maine Seacoast
Mission many years ago and continues happily today with the assistance of P.I.K.
(People Interested in Kids), Swan's Island's pta. Lotti Keene Is this year's
chair for the Christmas project. On December 14, Santa Claus distributed 84
packages: each child got a pair of mittens, a hat, and a toy. (MSM contributes
$2 for every P.I.K dollar, as well as the mittens and hats.) The school party
began with songs by the nursery school. This was followed by a Christmas play
and more singing and the magical appearance of Santa himself. The evening
celebration ended with rounds of cookies and ice cream for everyone!
Christmas 1990 will be a sad one for
many of the friends of Tim and Patsy Wagner. Tim, preacher for the Methodist
Baptist Church for seven and a half years, has decided to try his hand at
counseling and so will move his family off island In June. The Wagner's eagerly
awaited Christmas Open House on Saturday, December 16 was as glorious as an such
celebrations in the past Members from all the churches, as well as people from
the general public who to sing, go caroling in different groups all over the
island at the homes of the elderly. There are also presents for each person
visited. After tramping the island and visiting everyone on their lists, the
groups returned to the Atlantic parsonage for the best food ever! Patsy and Tim
had spent weeks preparing the feast and It was wonderful!
Tim, Patsy and their five boys will
be hard to replace. The church will have to advertise for a
preacher/cook/bicycles to replace Tim and only God knows where we will get
another beautiful woman to mow our lawns!! As for the five boys, they will be
missed for their energy and smiling faces! I will especially miss the youngest,
Jesse, who has been a faithful Story Hour kid. We all wish them good luck and
say, THANKS FOR EVERYTHING! December, 1990
Coyotes on Swan's Island?
The quiet of the early winter has
been rustling with rumors of strange sounds coming from woods and swamp. The
story goes that a fisherman radioed a local fisherman to ask if the Island had
coyotes and when the answser came back "no," the reply was, "You
do now." This fisherman claimed that he saw a coyote on the shores of the
Garden Point vicinity. And so the story grew.
Yipping noises were soon resounding
all over the Island. At the dump one day, two men claimed to have heard along
series of yips coming from the woods. "Never heard anything like it
before," they said.
"Someone said that So-and-So saw
coyotes at her trash can, but when I called her up about it, she said she never
heard of such a thing!"
A friend, when I happened to ask her
about coyote rumors, couldn't wait to ask me if it was true that I knew there
was a family of them near the library but that I didn't want to tell anyone
about it because I didn't want them killed. Wow! This rumor sounded just like
me, but it was untrue.
Others have been speculating that
state wardens put some coyotes here to take care of the deer problem the island
has been having for several years. There was even talk that wardens were
overheard in Bass Harbor talking about putting coyotes on the islands. It makes
a lot of sense to some people.
hat led me to place a phone call to
Swan's Island's Regional Wildlife Biologist, Tom Schaffer. "The department
never has and never will have such a program," he said. It is true that
coyotes are on Mt. Desert, but they got there naturally. Schaffer said that
coyotes came to Maine via Canada in the late 1960s. Coyotes are very resourceful
creatures and need no help from man to make their way. Schaffer doubts that they
could have made it to Swan's Island without benefit of pack Ice from the
mainland to our shores. It Is true that they could find plenty to eat (aside
from cats and children, as the gossip goes), to keep them going for a few years,
but Schaffer emphasized that it was unlikely that coyotes were here at all.
In the meantime, there are those who
claim to be hunting them. Schaffer says that coyotes may be hunted all year
round with a Maine state hunting license for small game. However, one must not
hunt on Sundays or before or after hunting hours. He also noted that the
department has a program for the control of problem animals. Including coyotes.
Certified hunters and trappers are called to dispatch specific animals that have
damaged crops or domestic animals.
Hunting phantom coyotes is a good
excuse to take a walk I suppose, but couldn't you simply take a walk and watch
birds instead? Oh yes, it would also be a relief to rest your tongue for awhile.
January/February, 1991
Reed's Store Burns in Bass Harbor
A local landmark burned to the
ground in Bass Harbor on January 2. Gone is Swan's Island's last stop before
home. The store stood since 1907 and is In the memory of many an old-timer who
made a quick stop for a bag of lime for the outhouse or a bottle of forbidden
wine to ease the ferry run homeward. You could always depend, if one had time,
on a nice short walk up to Reed's to look for something you didn't have time to
get in Ellsworth or Southwest Harbor. what with the pressure of getting back In
time for the last afternoon ferry!
The remains of the building have been
cleaned up and the space looks almost as If nothing had ever been there. Did you
know that the Bass Harbor Post Office was next to
Reed's? The post office now stands alone near the corner, slightly singed by the
fiery death of a place that we will miss. January/February, 1991
Swan's Island Summer Resorters
The earth must have thousands of
enchanted places like this where Being is the substance of music and poetry that
makes one cry to have to leave. Swan's Island has become an obsession to those
who come to summer.
The rusticators came in the late
1800's and sat on the porches of the big island hotels. They sat up there on
their white summer clothes and some islanders still remember them that way. The
Mohlers, Stephens, and Dodds, were among the first to populate the Ponceanna and
the Ocean View. Eventually, they built their own summer homes or bought up old
houses. All those years ago, fishermen had large parcels of land solely for the
purpose of hauling out fishing gear or to secure access to a weir. When the
fishing business went, many sold their useless lots because of taxes. They
didn't consider that in the future, their hold on the land would be lost forever
to the strangers who used the land for two months a year and left nothing but
dilemma for their descendents. Islanders always assumed that the land would be
there, free to take a picnic anywhere on the shore and free to walk on. More and
more is being lost to the summer people, with fewer islanders owning the shore.
But, the newer rusticators do not feel this very much, and they live sublimely
in the island summer. Some leave behind beastly hot states like the Carolinas or
Maryland, and that is reason plain enough. Others come for a simple change of
scene that clears vision and somehow rests them so they feel strong enough to
face the Other Reality. Some are returning to the place where they were born but
left for work or marriage. And always there are those traditional summer folk
who have come now for generations, like monarchs.
VIGNETTES
A few used to summer on other
islands like Gotts and Sutton. Lack of rents and the difficulty of getting back
and forth to the mainland finally forced them to Swan's which had ferry service
and possibilities. Nancy Hart is one of those and she has come now for thirteen
summers. She raised her grandson here. Together they explored every trail, went
fishing and she taught him how to row. Especially valuable was not having a TV,
so they did a lot of reading. Nancy's father had taught her to love the water
and she wanted her children and grandchildren to have the same opportunity.
Suzie and Toby lszard first saw their
island summer spot in 1969. It was in the fog and at low tide, but they fell in
love. They were here the first to buy a lot in the new development at Island
Retreat. For years their family had camped on Mt. Desert and they had visited
all the islands they could. The lszard teenagers didn't want to come here at
first, feeling that it would keep them from the things they wanted to do, but
the island became an important part of their lives and now, as grown ups, they
return with their own families. Parents value the chance to expand the lives of
their children, and youngsters learn that independence and interdependence are
important aspects of being a human being. Peter and Carol Petraitis came from
Philadelphia because Peter is a scientist who studies periwinkles and other
mudflat characters. They have come now for five years and greatly value the safe
environment for their two boys. It takes a lot to dampen the spirits of these
four: months of rain and fog hasn't kept them from walks and lots of lovely
dinners with friends. Philadelphia, to which they must return soon, looks like
hell to them, even from wet City Point. As summer people they have learned to
put up with all sorts of inconvenience, (little realizing that inconvenience is
a way of life on an island). The roof goes unrepaired for years on end and
because the faucet leaks, part of the daily routine is to empty the pan under
the sink. Carol and Peter would be happy with the most humble spot, as long as
that spot was on Swan's Island.
On modern Swan's Island the power
goes out two or three times a summer. Sandy Johnson and Judy Monroe out on Fir
Point aren't even phased in those emergencies because they don't have
electricity. That isn't strictly true anymore, but their step towards the 80's
was only tentative... literally, to a tent. Judy is a writer and is addicted to
her word processor, so last year a platform was built in the woods near the
powerline, a cable laid in and a Moss tent put up. This year she added a
cuisinart. For Sandy the encroachment is a narrow escape. Her place on the
island is her pride and they live so well with an outhouse, hand pump and solar
shower, that scads of off island company never even notices. It is Sandy's flesh
and blood to have the summer the way it has been for her for many years. Elaine
Herndon, originally from Massachusetts, is living out a childhood remembrance
here in her island home. As a child she summered on Great Diamond and only
rediscovered her love for islands four years ago by a chance encounter when a
displaced Swan's Islander was walking by her house in Myrtle Beach, South
Carolina. The moment she came, she knew this was her destiny. Now in her very
own island house, she happily crochets, walks her dog, reads and adds to her
collection of objects that remind her of islands in Penobscot Bay. She wouldn't
care ever to see another place on earth; she would rather live the rest of her
life on an island.
In 1968 Charles and Ernestine King
started their summers in what had been Andrew Smith's store. A retired chemist
and curator, the couple has worked faithfully on their island home restoring a
classic island house. Ernestine's special pleasure has been documenting some of
the sixteen layers of wallpaper she peeled from the dining room. She discovered
that an old island neighbor, Basil Joyce and his mother before him had applied
some of the layers, in fact Basil recalls putting up layer thirteen in 1922! The
Kings take their pleasures simply and are rather like islanders of forty years
ago in that they know very little about Minturn or Swan's Island village: they
live quietly and happily in Atlantic, Maine.
It may be a primal urge that sends
us, like nomads, to other pastures with the change of season. Modern American
life has forced many things on us, but some people have not yet evolved that
need out of their genes. October, 1988
Swan's Island Story Hour
All winter the Story Hour kids
came. They waded through snow and braved some really nasty mornings. On good
days they came on bikes, but mostly they walked together to the Library - Museum
in Atlantic to hear a story or two, or three. They leave Saturday morning
cartoons at home to hear something different, like Pavarotti sing "La Donna
E Mobile", or find the eggs and jelly beans hidden in the stacks on Easter
and then hide them again and again, or to hear just how grim Grimm can get!
The smallest book lover is just
learning her alphabet and the big kids don't at all mind reading every ABC book
in the library. They all love to hear new things, but never tire of McClosky or
E.B. White. The ten or so children love books and many of them are on the honor
roll at school.
On a rare occasion, Story Hour has
entertained only one, but that one is usually Christal and she loves to listen
to poetry. An hour with her rosy, brown cheeks, long braids and beautiful smile,
is an hour of reward as great as if every child or the island came that day.
What better work can a library do? October, 1988
Water, Water, Everywhere?
When my family first came back to
the island in the 60's, our house on City Point had no electricity. Our water
came from the cistern in the cellar which we pumped up to the kitchen with a
hand pump. The cistern was filled with wash water at the beginning of the season
by Richard LeMoine who was the Fire Chief in those days. He brought the load of
water in the fire truck. Drinking water was lugged in milk cans. Since the fire
truck load did not last all summer, my father set up a gasoline driven pump to
propel water up the hill, 500 feet to our house. We still did not drink the
water in the cistern, but saved it for washing purposes only. (I remember my
mother fishing out dead snakes and mice and throwing in bleach.)
Our bathroom was a luxurious three
hole outhouse that was really indoors and next to the woodshed. It was a short
walk through what had been the summer kitchen in the days of my ancestors going
back seven generations. We lighted our nights with kerosene lamps and Alladins
(I can hear the pure hiss of the Alladin now!). When we bathed, my mother heated
large pots of water on a kerosene stove. When I was small I could stand in the
sink to take a bath, but later, we each would have the kitchen all to ourselves
as we bathed in a big basin with the glow of yellow light playing in the warm
room. Once a week, when we needed to wash our hair, we would walk to the Quarry
Pond with shampoo and extra towel in hand. Many us used to bathe there in the
summer; there was nothing like having the largest bathtub in the world at our
disposal!
It has been almost thirty years now.
The family house is still in the family, but has electricity and running water.
Many old houses have been modernized in this way and are contributing to what
could be a problem. In the old days water was not squandered, as it was too hard
to come by. It had to be hauled or hand pumped. In modern times, water is used
for more things than our great grandparents dreamed of: flushing toilets,
washing dishes automatically, heating the house, cleaning teeth with waterpics,
showering, washing clothes automatically... The availability of water is taken
for-granted and an average household uses about 300 gallons a day. But, that may
have to change and a return to a more thoughtful and cautious use of water may
be in order.
After 1987's Town Meeting, a Water
Cornmittee was formed to study the is-land's water situation. Carol Loehr was
made chairperson and was joined by others. Water quality at the Quarry Pond and
the general island water supply have been their concerns. The committee was also
charged with the investigating the extent of radon; the island once had a
granite industry.
The Water Committee waded right in,
and by that summer had completed a series of tests at the Quarry Pond. They
found that the pond was safe for swimming, but the number of coliform bacteria
steadily rose during the summer months. The bacteria is fed by great flocks of
seagulls which gather in fresh water to rid themselves of parasites and
defecate, and by swimming children who naturally urinate in the water.
The Water Committee's 1988 study of
the Quarry Pond shows rising levels of coliform bacteria and fecal streptococcus
in the summer months. Under the direction of Hans Borei, a retired University of
Pennsylvania marine biologist who was also instrumental in the 1987 work, tests
have been performed at the Quarry Pond and the Goose Pond, which was used as a
control. This summer Mr. Borei and his assistants, Mike Camber and lver Lofving,
made an informal count of seagulls at the Quarry Pond. On the first occasion the
count was 250, and on the second, the count was 500 gulls! Because of the
availability of food at the dump, the gull population has soared in recent
years. More people are discovering Swan's Island and the Quarry Pond; the rise
in fecal streptococcus is in direct relation to these factors. Although the
bacteria count indicates that the water is safe for swimming, this is
contradicted by the effect swimming in the Quarry Pond has had on some
individuals: there have been reports of serious ear infections and the notorious
"swimmer's itch."
The island's water supply was
evaluated last year by State hydrologist John Williams, director of the
Hydrology Division. He found that the island could support moderate growth, but
also noted that his calculations should be, "interpreted with great
caution." The water committee put together a map delineating the wells and
population density, as well as history of water supply. Wells at the Minturn
Loop and the Village of Swan's Island are apt-to go dry. These two areas have a
concentration of houses and tap into a limited water resource.
Island water, which comes to us as
rain and snow, does not settle in a common aquifer, but in isolated
"recharge areas," of which there are 16 of major importance on Swan's
Island. The water migrates into fractures in the bedrock.
A University of New Hampshire
graduate student, Richard Bursaw, has been studying these fractures for his
master's thesis. He has walked the circumference of the island to find where
basalt and granite come together indicative of the fractures made by the moving
of the earth's plates. This fall he has begun looking overland, seeking straight
features to complete his mapping of the island's fractures. With this
information, the Water Committee may be able to offer advice to the Town when
work begins again on a new Comprehensive Plan.
Radon testing has been performed in a
few households and at the school. Some sites show high concentrations, but tests
must be replicated to confirm the first results.
Radon is a gas which occurs naturally
in granite and is measured in one-trillionth parts called picocuries. Radon
slowly escapes to the surface and thence into the atmosphere. In the
decomposition process, radon breaks down into "daughter" molecules.
These daughters cling to dust particles and smoke and can be dangerous when
breathed over a long period of time. They stick to lung cells and their
radiation then causes cancer. Radon escapes into the air all around us, but is
primarily dangerous to those who live in modern air-tight houses. Then there is
no chance for the gas to escape harmlessly into the air, but rather into the
house itself where it accumulates. The gas enters cellars, even through cracks
in concrete floors. Many of our old houses thankfully leak like sieves and radon
there is less dangerous. Summer residents may not be in their homes long enough
to be banned by a long-term exposure to radon's daughters. Not enough is known
about the extent of radon on Swan's Island yet but the Water Committee is aware
of the problems and will inform the people when its extent is known.
The work of the Water Committee has
been recognized by the State, which praised it for the thorough job it has done.
The well data was entered into the state-wide data base. The body of the Water
Committee's data is growing: every month new information on more than 200 wells
is added. Dr. Borei and others continue to take measurements in test wells
around the island and to monitor water quality. Results from radon testing are
being noted as well. Perhaps our for- bears could not imagine a picocurie or a
waterpic, but in today's world a citizen has to know what is acceptable. October,
1988
Aground!
The morning of the new moon,
September 10th, dawned in a fog in Burnt Coat, but by noon, the dampness began
to clear. My friends went off to do some painting on Long Cove, and I to my
duties at the library and after, to my job at Garden Point at the northwestern
end of Swan's Island. I arrived at 4 to see a stranger leaving the house and
walk off down the deserted road and cut into the woods. I asked my employer who
this was and he told me that if I cared to step outdoors. I'd see a ship
aground. I walked back to my car where I grabbed my camera and walked to the
summit of Sunset Rock and saw the horrible sight of a yacht completely out of
water and resting on her starboard side. I walked closer, took photos and
watched as two small tenders floated just beyond the ledges, apparently working
at some task. I walked over seaweed and rocks and then over vast stretches of
ledge, white with barnacles. As I came at the boat from this angle, I could see
far out in Casco Passage another ship aground on Long Ledge! This seemed too
ridiculous to be true! But, there she was, red hull bright against the sky and
listing on her port side with nothing but the sea around. I could not imagine
what these sailors must be doing to save themselves! Two boats came to
misfortune on the same falling tide within sight of each other.
Two men were walking around the
vessel and as I approached I called, "Hello!" I picked out the older
man as the captain of the unfortunate boat and I introduced myself. "I'm
Maili Bailey. I'm on the Swan's Island Planning Board. Do you have a shipwreck
permit?" A small cloud drifted over his face, but he smiled and we
discussed the fine kettle he was in. His son was in their tender trying to pull
up the anchor they had dumped overboard in the confusing moments of the
disaster. The anchor chain had tangled in the prop and they feared shaft
dam-age. They were assisted by sailors from a boat at anchor in nearby Buckle
Harbor.
The amiable Mr. Hutchinson told me
how he had given the bearings to the man I had seen at my employer's house, and
so acknowledged that the fault was his own. They were under power in the fog and
the mistake of one degree sent them on a trip to Swan's Island they never
planned. "Le Garage" seemed to be in good shape, her steel keel merely
skun on the barnacles. Now her weight was held by a few bumpers and life
jackets. The Coast Guard informed them that they would be along around 9 PM; the
tide would be high about 10 PM.
Mr. Hutchinson asked me about the
current and I explained it ran between Orono Island and Garden Point, running to
Garden Point. They had nothing to do now but set their anchor, wait for the tide
and plan their safe escape. I said good bye to them, wished them good luck and
walked back to the house, still marveling at the sight of a ship out of her
element, and of the other, so far out in Casco Passage that I was a raid to
think of her.
Later, Kevin, the man who has been at
the helm, came to the house to ask if someone could help with the anchor, as
they could not pull more than halfway. I made a few calls to fishermen I knew
might be on Mackerel Cove, and discovered David Joyce was just finishing his
day's haul. His wife said that he would come, as soon as he could. The fisherman
knew of the accident, but the yachtsmen had not called for help. In less than 20
minutes, Mr. Joyce was headed for "Le Garage." I ran to Sunset Rock
again and took photos of the rescue of the anchor. The last time I saw them, I
delivered a message that Horatio could not come until Monday: Mr. Hutchmson was
dismayed that he should I have to stay in Buckle Harbor to wait for his tow, and
I suppose worry about his craft through another night. Since I was almost out of
gas, I dared not venture out again to Garden Cove to listen to their adventure
in the night I could imagine the anxiety and wished not to intrude, as I could
be of no help to them. I knew that David Joyce had promised to go back to them
when the tide was right. They were afloat and safe by the time he arrived. He
towed them into Buckle Harbor and left them at anchor. As for the other boat, I
suppose she is safe too, but I will never know for sure. All that perished were
hundreds of barnacles, and perhaps a bit of Mr. Hutchinson's ease at sea. It is
best to keep your respect for the sea well dusted, as you never know when you
will need it. October, 1988
Summer Flush
Summer comes slowly to the island.
Even after several days of real warmth, the winter is never far from
remembering. There are times when I can't really believe that winter is over, It
is remarkable that the grass gets green, (wasn't there one ton of snow there a
moment ago?). Suddenly, islanders are digging dandelion greens for supper and
mowing lawns that mysteriously have grown to incredible heights seemingly
overnight.
The harbor is busy now at an early
hour. The men start for their fishing grounds before daybreak. Their day will be
long, but there will still be light for most of them on their return. The
afternoon's busy sounds are now in harmony with the Fishermen's Co-op's new ice
machine as it makes thin shreds to pack the fishermen's catch for shipment
Frenchboro fishermen off load here too, but now the fishermen are outnumbered by
the tourists waiting for their lobsters. They haul off their prizes with eager
faces.
Elsewhere on the island, houses are
being built way down dirt roads. The work picked up when winter forgot to come
back. Now the carpenters work with hands that can actually feel tools and wood.
But some of us know that winter is already on the way... it'll be here any
minute, and it's a race. If you watch wild flowers grow and flower and seed, you
know about the race. But, back to summer. Picnics and friends and blue skies and
boats; it seems extra good to be alive in the summer, even with winter coming
on. July, 1988
The Light at Hockamock Head
Lighthouses in Maine have been in
the media regularly, but little has been said about the light at Burnt Coat
Harbor. In 1986, the Swan's Island Educational Society (SIES) made an
unsuccessful attempt to secure the keeper's house for use as a museum. The Coast
Guard at Southwest Harbor proposed to use the facility for rest and recreational
purposes and sent volunteer guardsmen to gut the building and make repairs.
The gutting was a shock to the
society, but even after calls to Boston headquarters, who knew nothing of the
work being done on Swan's Island, and to the commander at Southwest Harbor,
nothing could be done to stop it; indeed the gutting was complete before it was
discovered. In the past two years, the Coast Guard has been under pressure to
close facilities. So it was confusing that the Coast Guard would continue its
work here.
In 1986 the selectmen, in conjunction
with the SIES sent a letter to Coast Guard headquarters stating that the town
would be interested in acquiring the property should that become a possibility.
In the meantime. The roof was
repaired after the new shingles put on last year were ripped off in last
winter's storm. The Coast guard affixed wire over the windows to secure the
house against vandals and they periodically quietly perform maintenance chores.
The townspeople look on the light as
part of their heritage and it would be a great loss to everyone should the light
go to "the outside." July, 1988
Who Needs Affordable Housing?
Fifty years ago you could buy an
Island house for $500 or thereabouts. People worked long and hard to save up for
a house and land. Over the years prices oozed on up to $5,000 and then to well
over $200,000 for what used to be great granddad's place down on the shore.
We all have heard those stories about
how "cheap" things were back then, forgetting about the relativity of
the cost of living. What we haven't realized so much is that sometimes land was
sold because some fisherman or widow couldn't afford to pay taxes on land that
they weren't using, and hundreds of acres fell Into the hands of off islanders
who could afford it. After awhile, families had no land left to pass on to
children and grandchildren.
Many islanders today have been caught
In this "lost inheritance effect" and are basically homeless. Some
lucky enough to find a rental most often must relocated during the summer season
so that owners may benefit from weekly rental rates with which they pay taxes
and some upkeep.
Grown children and new couples live
with parents while waiting for some opportunity for something better. Young
families have had to live In less than favorable conditions for years before
finding a better trailer or a piece of land they could call their own.
These problems are not unique to
Swan's Island: what may be different, is that the town explored the
possibilities of "affordable housing" and won a grant and a low
Interest loan to accomplish a project. On the face of it, the plan seems a good
one: developed land would be made available to members of the community who
qualify. But the process has been confused with the addition of another idea: a
Community Development Block Grant which would incorporate a fish processing
plant to be built by the town for Mariculture Products, Ltd. The two are somehow
tied together and there is excitement of all sorts on Island.
While some fail to see the beauty of
the plan of the town building a specialized building for private enterprise, the
idea of producing affordable housing and jobs at the same time is very
attractive. The details are being worked on by a limited edition of the
Affordable Housing Committee and consultant, Jim Hatch. The town will be asked
to vote on the issues at the end of May.
So, who needs housing? While the
issues are being debated at weekly meetings, the people who would populate the
lots in Atlantic (tentatively known as Duck Brook) anxiously hope for a good
outcome. Kathy Martin Cook and her niece Billie Jo May Riedel, their husbands
and families have put their names on the list of those interested in Duck Brook.
Lottie Belle Staples Keene, an Affordable Housing Committee member, is
interested in the project partly because her grandmother Amy Staples gave the
land to the town years ago. The three women have spent most of their lives on
the island, but have struggled with the decision to stay. Lotti, Kathy and
Billie Jo talked with me about living on the island and about staying too.
Kathy. 24, lives in a trailer with
her husband Millard Cook and two children, ages 9 and 6, on family land where
there are three trailers and a house. The small piece of land is owned by a
complicated troika of relatives with no clear boundaries between the living
quarters on it. Sometimes the tension erupts into family feuds. "I would
like to be off by myself because it is too crowded here. I would like something
to call my own." With their third, child about to be born this month, their
decision to stay on Swan's Island will have to be carefully considered. "We
could add on to the trailer here, but the land isn't ours and we don't know what
will happen. We could do what we want on our own land. We could move it (to Duck
Brook) and add on to make it like a double wide and shingle it like a
house." But the future is uncertain. Millard is a good auto mechanic
but is working for someone else doing carpentry, and the work has not shaped up
for the season. It may be that they would have to seek work off Island.
"Millard gets sea sick so he can't go fishing or work for Mariculture."
Living and working on Swan's Island can sometimes be tenuous.
19-year-old Billie Jo Riedel, husband
Thomas and year-old son. have just moved out of their winter rental and into a
small trailer at Stockbridge Hill. They had lived in another trailer before the
winter house, but had to move. "We had a struggle this winter because
Thomas didn't have work. But he got some odd jobs and now has work with
Mariculture." Billie Jo would like to stay even though the island doesn't
have things like movies and department stores. But their future on the island
will depend on jobs. Thomas was trained as a boat builder but the industry has
undergone a slowdown in the state. He is considering returning to school to
study diesel mechanics. With the uncertainty of the job situation in the future,
the decision to remain on Swan's Island is not an easy one for the Riedels
either. Their future on Swan's Island would make more sense to them if they
could put themselves into their own land and not have to live like Gypsies.
Lotti Belle Staples Keene, 30,
returned to Swan's Island in 1989 after living and working off island for a few
years. Her work experience included working with her mother running a summer
camp for girls, babysitting, odd jobs, and shift
manager for Burger King in Ellsworth and Rockland where she was able to make her
restaurant one of the top ten in New England in ten months. She was married in
1985, had several small jobs and then worked for a bank in Bar Harbor while
living in Trenton. After the birth of her son, now 3. she decided that home on
Swan's Island was the only place to raise him. She moved back in 1989 with
husband Roger, and lived in a trailer on her brother-in-law land on Stockbridge'
Hill. The trailer was in poor condition. "No running water, outhouse, and
doors that wouldn't close." Later, they moved into her grandparents' house,
but her mother and aunts owned it and have it for sale. This house had problems
too: the doors closed, but water had to be carried in and they take showers at
her sister's or parents' houses. When her father inherited land, he set aside
some acreage for her. They were able to put in a road last year. again with the
help of her father who is an island contractor, and are in hopes that they will
be able to build this year.
As a member of the Affordable Housing
Committee, Lotti has been frustrated by the functioning of the committee.
Important decisions have been made without the full input of the committee. She
feels, and others feel as she does, that the addition of the fish processing
plant to the equation may complicate the essential issue of affordable housing
so much that both may fall at a town vote which will come up at the end of the
month. But Lotti has an insight into the problems that confront Islanders
without land or hope of a place of their own and hopes that the issues will be
resolved and made workable so that her neighbors can have homes on their own
land. Roads and wells will go in this fall if the town approves the plan. May,
1991
Ferry Blues
Swan's Island was mobilized Into
action upon the receipt of a letter from the Department of Transportation's
Deputy Commissioner Russell W. Spinney late in May. Spinney's letter informed
the selectmen that the town of North Haven had requested that the DOT
permanently reassign the Everett Libby to their run, therefore leaving Swan's
Island with an eight car ferry until sometime in the future when the new vessel
under construction is delivered.
The months prior to the receipt of
this information had been fraught with frustration to say the least. Swan's
Island has been busy with the comings and goings of the island's salmon business
and the building of summer homes in all parts of the island. The normal business
of islanders requires that we go off island to get the goods and services not to
be had on Island. The ordeal of attempting to take yourself and your long list
of things to do off island has become almost
impossible with everyone
else trying to do the same and trying to squeeze
in between the trucks of industry. "If we get stuck with the
eight car ferry this
summer there will be
a war zone down there!" Comments along those lines
could be heard from all quarters.
The selectmen quickly
mobilized a
counter-request in the form of a petition which
by the end of the day had 280 signatures. "Anyone irritated by the
ferry," had signed the petition
said Gwen May, wife
of selectman Roger May. Planning Board chairman,
Norman Staples, sent a letter to Spinney
to express his personal concerns and those if
the Planning Board. Phone cells
were made to Augusta by mainland companies
who do business with
Swan's Island. At the selectmen's meeting on June
13th, Sonny Sprague announced that the concerted effort
had paid off: the Libby would be returned as soon
as possible. Islanders realized
that it feels bad to have to "fight" against
another island, but they also realize that they have to do the best they can
with available resources, as usual.
June 1991
Swan's Island Electric Cooperative Meeting
The annual meeting of the Swan's
Island Electric Cooperative was held without incident this year. Last year the
Co-op was embarrassed by several power failures during the meeting. This year's
gathering was blessed by Father Charles Riepe. the island's resident summer
priest, who got the evening's first round of applause for his prayer in which he
asked God to forgive utterance when the power goes out. Evidently the Power
heard, for all went smoothly. The fish dinner, meeting guest speaker and the
awarding of prizes were completed Just before nine o'clock, post meridiem.
The Cooperative reported that the
installation of its substation at the Crossroads had begun. Manager David Honey
said that the new transformers had just arrived at Bass Harbor and that he hoped
the project could be completed In September, concrete pads are in place and
other earth work has been performed in preparation. The completed system will
increase capacity by 33% and should be sufficient for the future growth of
Swan's Island and Frenchboro. At present the Cooperative has 410 members and
reads 453 meters.
The Cooperative will have to turn off
the power during different stages of the project and will inform the public when
this needs to be done. A planned outage still cannot be planned for by the
homeowner and seasonal renter. The electricity was off for about three hours on
July 16 and some found themselves without water pumps for several hours after
that. The situation was complicated because drought conditions may have emptied
wells at just that moment, (you know how things go!) There were anxious hours
before things were in order once again and switches reset.
While several ladles knitted during
the meeting, three members were elected to the Board of Trustees from a field of
six. lver E. Lofving, Annette Joyce and Kenneth LeMoine, Jr. were reelected to
their three year positions. After the last door prize, a large box of light
bulbs, was awarded to Arthur Gefvert, the meeting was adjourned until the same
time next year. July, 1991
Swan's Island's July 4 Festivities
This year's holiday week around
the Fourth of July was jammed packed with exciting doings. Friends and family
gathered at the Atlantic ball field for a picnic sponsored by the Methodist
Church ladles who grilled hot dogs and sold watermelon and dessert, crabrolls,
soft drinks and Ice cream cones. Games were organized by Buzzy Keene and kids of
all ages were included in tug-of-war contest. egg tosses and the like.
On the fifth of July, the Swan's
Island Educational Society produced the Virgil Geddes play, I Have Seen
Myself Before, at the Odd Fellows Hall. The hall was packed full and chairs
had to be brought from other parts of the building to accommodate the audience.
The more than 200 playgoers were rewarded by the wonderful performances of the
cast.
Starring were Robert Horton, as
George Emery Blum, an out-of-work undertaker, and as his wife Edith, Betty
Carlson. lver W. Lofving played Bert Cardway, Blum's ex-employee in the
undertaking trade and friend and his wife Carlotta was played by Monica Cease.
Dwayne Kent and Lotti Keene played Peter and Matilda Cobb, special dinner guests
at the Blum residence one evening in the 1930's.
In the play's plot, George Blum has
been unemployed for some time and his friend Bert Cardway has the idea that a
dinner party might get him a job with an important business man in town, Peter
Cobb. The Blums have very little and so decide to kill their pet hen Grace, who
has lived in their kitchen for two years, and serve her at their dinner for six
that evening.
That night, when all the guests have
assembled, Blum can't keep himself from telling everyone that Grace is the main
course. The idea of eating a pet startles and upsets the ladies but interests
the gentlemen. The evening conversation ends with Matilda Cobb leaving the Blum
residence in a flurry of excitement and revulsion. Peter Cobb is intrigued by
George Blum and promises his friendship before he exits.
The promise of friendship taken an
interesting twist in the next scenes when Peter Cobb returns to tell Blum and
Cardway that after their dinner together, he followed his wife home where he had
drowned his wife's adored pet dog in a haze of anxiety over the fact he and his
wife do not communicate; Matilda, it seems, has been talking instead with the
dog.
The Geddes characters, played by
islanders and locals, and directed by Eugene Jellison, gave the audience a fine
night out and-the hall rang with laughter and applause for a job well done. The
night's receipts went to the library for its plan to renovate the old Atlantic
School that Minna Geddes, the playwright's wife, left to the Society in 1990. An
encore performance is planned for August 1, 1991 at the Odd Fellows Hall at
eight o'clock.
The week's celebration continued as
fireworks were set off on Saturday July 6. This year's show was funded by
private donations and parties were planned around the harbor to take advantage
of the show. Boats came from Frenchboro, Mt. Desert and Stonington and showed
their appreciation at the end with a long horn blast that echoed over the water
and down the little coves and inlets of the harbor to where folks and stayed
home out of the way of so much commotion.
But there was yet one more thing to
do before the week was out; an Odd Fellows Breakfast. It was well attended by
those who appreciate all you can eat bacon. eggs, blueberry pancakes, home-fries
and coffee and more. They love to turn out between seven and nine in the morning
for the now famous meal. Breakfast, of course, is a time when the family should
be able to get together to talk over what they will do that day. It is great fun
to meet friends and relatives at these affairs and not have to wash one single
greasy frying pan! We appreciate these every other Sunday breakfasts and dread
the end of summer only because then so too will end the Odd Fellows Breakfasts. July,
1991
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