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Swan's Island Aquaculture: Oysters on the Small Scale
Tall and thin, and now dressed
in a wet suit, Robert Horton looks like his
favorite candy, licorice. That morning he waded into the waters of Mackerel Cove
to retrieve a cage of oysters, now entering their second year. From the shore,
there is no evidence of the 52 cages moored below the surface. In each unit
there are approximately 1,000 oysters that he bought as spat from Bill Mook's
hatchery on the Damariscotta River. Now
sitting on the deck, he sorts through the tiny shellfish, separating wild
mussels from his prizes.
Horton moved to Swan's Island's
Island Retreat area, where he became the only year-round resident, during the
winter of 1987. His house above the beautiful ledges of Mackerel Cove, reflects
his temper and taste. His experience in setting up United Nations-sponsored
fish farms in South and Central America, Africa, and in many developing nations
around the world, led him to look at the Belon
oyster industry in the United States. He thought it would be an interesting
concept that could lead to "Morn and
Pop" grow-out operations.
"10 years ago," he says,"the
Amoco Cadiz oil spill off the coast of France,
caused an algae bloom which someone tried to eliminate with an algaecide.
That wiped out the Belon oyster. The Belon is the Queen of Oysters. They haven't
been able to raise them in that area on a large scale ever since. Oysters from
Siberia are now grown there, but are not the same quality as the Belon. Before
the oil spill, the Belon was introduced in Harpswell,
Maine. It was thought that they wouldn't breed, but they did and these can be
found in the wild as far as Cranberry Island."
Horton says that his concept is
twofold. Raising oysters commercially with leases from the State, there is a
potential of making $35,000.00 a year, and he would have an accessible food
supply. Secondly, his idea is to make cages of 2 year old oysters available for
anyone to grow themselves. "It would be a good job for women. It is low-tech,
you don't need a boat and the cages only weigh 35 lbs."
At the turn of the century,
oysters were very popular and were consumed on a large scale in America. Every
bar had an oyster bar. Pollution reduced the oyster harvest greatly in this
country, but in the 80's, so many new markets opened up every year, that made it
an exciting challenge for entrepreneurial types, like Horton, who have braved
the new world of aquaculture. Though he grants
that oysters are still, "A rich man's crop," he feels that oysters
would make a good replacement for the standard American hors
d'oeuvre, shrimp, which are now imported and very
expensive.
The Belon oyster grows below the low
tide mark and that puts them in leasable State lands. Unlike the problem of
growing clams directly on the flats, where anyone can dig them if the flats are
not protected, oysters are grown out in cages. Cultured oysters may be harvested
and sold at any time of the year and with the advent of refrigerated mail and
mail-order, oyster farming could have a wonderful future. Horton also likes the
idea of growing oysters, because oysters were a
wild species in Maine and he feels that there are
many areas around Swan's Island that would make nice oyster beds, as they may
have been in the past.
In the meantime, he culls his baby
bivalve mollusks, cage by cage, and envisions what
could be, if the mussels and clams which sometimes
take up residence, would just leave his project be...but
Horton has plans for the clams too: wouldn't it be! great to grow out the ones
that get caught amongst the oysters, in their own cages? Another winter is fast
coming on, and there will be time enough to make some plans! August,
1989
Salmon Run
At the end of July I rode the
ferry that delivered the last salmon smolt
to their watery beds off of Gooseberry Island. For several days Mariculure
had been transporting smolt from their Bingham
hatchery and anyone who wanted to take a special trip,
could do so for free.
The truck, with its special
fiberglass tanks, made the three hour trip and arrived for the last scheduled
trip to the island. After discharging the few vehicles that were able to squeeze
on with the extra long flat bed which took up almost the entire center of the
boat, the ferry got underway for the trip around the north of Swan's Island.
At 6 PM,
the ferry was deserted save, for we two, three Mariculture
personal and ferry crew. A thick fog quickly enveloped our journey which we
imagined would have been beautiful. We passed one large yacht under motor bound
for safe haven in Mackerel Cove I hoped, for the going was indeed blind. The
captain slowed at some distance, we were told, from the pens, and gave a long
loud blast on the horn. We slowly proceeded and then suddenly, the hallooing of
the island crew pierced the fog. As if in a dream, the scene materialized before
us in the dimming light.
The Pegasus, Steve Wheaton's boat,
was tied up on the opposite side from the arrangement of tires roped to the
metal pen so that the ferry could dock. Quickly, the men went about the business
of releasing about 20,000 fish. Hoses were fastened, a little pump was started,
water cascaded over the decks and finally, the little fish appeared down the
other end of a long hose that was steadied by two men who held up the end with
ropes. A few of the 6" fish began to sort of dance just at the surface.
With their noses slightly higher, they darted about the pen and flashed just
below the surface. In a matter of minutes, the job was done, gear secured,
envelopes passed, farewells said, and we were
parted.
The ferry headed back. On and on into
the total darkness of the fog and night, while my friend worked on a painting he
had sketched while the salmon were being transferred and I read. At Bass Harbor,
the ferry crew waited a moment to see if anyone would take advantage of the late
trip, but when no one came down, we headed home. By ten o'clock we had completed
our trip and felt satisfied that we had done something special. August,
1989
It is January 3, 1990. The dead
salmon are a shocking sight. Many of the two pound fish have, incredibly,
worn away their snouts to the bone and some have
lost an eye. One salmon had worn away his
operculum or gillcover
on one side. There are large areas on the bodies
where scales have come off. On some there are patches where the skin has worn
away so that one can see the pattern of the flesh as
if it had already been poached and presented to
you for supper. There are 10 totes of dead and dying
salmon aboard the boat this morning and there are
more from the day before in the old bait house on
Kent's Wharf which is being rented by Mariculture
for the winter. Most of these will be sent over to
the Fisherman's Coop to be used as lobster bait and a few of the better looking
ones will be given away. It seems bitterly ironic
that we are relishing a beautifully warm day by
pulling chairs out onto the dock to discuss the possibility that the salmon have
been dying partly due to the effects of cold.
Henrik Hoem,
a marine biologist ho works for Agersoe Haubrug
in Denmark which raises rainbow trout, arrived on
Swan's Island at the end of December. He was hired to act as an advisor on the
management of the Mariculture salon project. Mr. Hoem has worked
in aquaculture for six years
and has never seen or heard such a problem. His company harvests all their fish
in December and again in April. (Agersoe Haubrug
harvested 550 tons in 1989.) Mr. Hoem is puzzled by the horrible
condition of the fish and has no solution so far.
Mr. Hoem noted that salmon do not
feed when the temperatures are low. In the wild the fish go to deeper levels
when the water temperature drops. (Mariculture's
application for an aquaculture lease on the Toothacher
Cove site stated that there were "ideal water depths". The U.S. Army
Corps of Engineers initially delayed the placement of the pens in Toothacher
Cove because they questioned that the proper depths were available on the site.)
Parker Waite, a Mariculture manager, said that he
thought that the problems were related to the cold water temperatures. He said
that water temperatures dropped dramatically, nine degrees centigrade, in a
month and a half and that divers have seen the fish schooling on the bottom of
the nets.
Tests performed at the University of
Maine have shown no disease. Mariculture has been trying to determine a probable
cause. Some within the company feel that delays are a major factor. The fish
were not put into the water until well past the time that was optimum and then
they were put into a temporary site from which they were moved to the permanent
site in Toothacher Cove. The move was followed by storms and extraordinarily
cold water temperatures which caused the fish not to eat and hampered
prompt maintenance of the nets. By the time nets could be changed, according to
Mariculture foreman Jerry Smith, the work had to be done in bad weather and the
nets were extremely fouled with mussels. Mr. Smith speculates that the fish
couldn't see the new nets. Divers have watched as the fish repeatedly swim into
the nets. Some of the pens have fish in better condition than others, though Mr.
Smith noted that fish in pen number six, which had its
net changed two weeks ago, had shown signs of stress the morning of January 3. Parker
Waite said that the other pens had also showed
signs of stress two weeks after nets had been
changed.
The temperatures of early January
have moderated, but it is already too late to help the
sick salmon in the cove. Mariculture does not
expect lose all the fish, but has conceded that their enterprise on Swan's
Island has had a very bad start. On January 5, divers began the job of removing
dead fish from the bottom of the nets... anyone who sees the battered bodies of
the salmon can only hope that someone finds a solution
soon.
S
almon note: Parker Waite tells me that the commercial death of a salmon should be painless. The fish are put into ice water that has carbon dioxide pumped into it. This anesthetizes them and one gill is cut so that they bleed to death. Waite says that the fish do not thrash about during this process. Gravalax any-one? January, 1990Salmon Update
The rate of salmon loss has diminished since
January, according to Parker Walte
of Mariculture Products Lt.
However, the company will not know the full extent of its loss until March. Mr. Waite
believes the deaths were due to the stress of moving
from Elingham to Swan's Island and the water
temperatures in November.
He feels that they may still see the effects until
May and June.
Foreman Jerry Smith
said that some of the injured
fish are now eating. Mr. Waite said
that In addition,
the fish were schooling
normally. He also noted that the water temperature was still a cold one degree
centigrade. 60,000 salmon, the brothers and sisters
of the fish now in Toothacher
Cove were kept at the Bingham hatchery for the
winter: these will be placed
in new pens between April and June.
In the meantime, dead salmon are
still being culled from the pens, but this is being done on a weekly rather than
daily basis. Mariculture Products is apparently not discouraged. The firm is
pursuing two other lease sites: one at Frenchboro and the other between Harbor
and Scrag Islands. Mr. Walte says that the company feels that three sites will
be needed for the 675,000 salmon they hope to raise profitably In the waters of
Swan's Island. February, 1990
Mariculture Pens Wild Salmon in Harbor
Mariculture
Products Ltd. has a small number of wild Atlantic
salmon in a transfer pen in Burnt Coat Harbor that
were acquired through the Atlantic
Sea Run Salmon Commission
and the Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife.
The 85 salmon are the survivors of a capture and
stripping operation
that was accomplished in
the spring of 1989 in the Penobscot
and Union Rivers.
Surplus wild salmon are given
to the private sector in hopes that the fish will
recondition and
enter another reproductive cycle;
such fish are used in a program that is
studying the effect of "cultured"
escapees on the wild salmon population.
The captured salmon virtually
have not eaten since last May. They have absorbed
ovaries, testes and body fat to carry them
through. The Swan's Island workers note that the fish
are as skinny as eels now, but that they have been
able to get a few eating a little.
The complicated cycle of the Atlantic
salmon has been studied in
depth, but scientists
still have much to learn and a small piece
of the puzzle is being
worked out here in the harbor. April,
1990
Swan's Island Salmon on the Market
After working long and hard for
two years, suffering the loss of thousands of fish
last winter, and steering through a maze of
regulations and open controversy as to the
environmental safety of the project, Mariculture
Products Ltd. is now in Its second month of salmon
harvesting. The company's impressive shipping box
has the headline, "Swan's Island" marked in large
letters.
The salmon are shipped
iced in the boxes to markets all across the eastern states. You can also find
It in the fish department In Doug's
Shop 'n Save in Ellsworth,
where it competes
well with other types of salmon.
Processing will continue
until the end of
January at which time Mariculture will
review the feasibility
of their operation
on Swan's Island.
Mariculture has erected a
"temporary" storage building, 24'x30',
at the town wharf from which
it is renting space: the building replaces the truck trailers that had been used
there and were objected to by neighbors. (The company originally
had planned to build a quonset hut alongside
the Electric Cooperative's office,
but abutters objected to the style.)
A net washer, which
looks like a turbine
from a hydroelectric plant is now sitting on a
concrete pad measuring l5'xl5', this being located
near the head and to the right of the ramp to the public float. Mariculture now
has a very large and complicated operation going
and employs some 20 Swan's Islanders as well as some people from Frenchboro
as well as from off Island. Working on and
near the ocean is a difficult job: early hours in freezing
conditions in all
weather stretch into late, dark hours ... It is worse for the salmon, of course,
but best for the one who loves to eat them! December, 1990
Swan's Island Clam Committee Digs In
Swans Island resident Leslie
Ranquist boldly stepped forward at this year's March town meeting and asked the
town to support the island clammers who felt that the time had come to seriously
look into improving the clam industry on Swan's Island. Mr. Ranquist asked that
$1,000 be raised and the voters concurred. The island clam ordinance stipulates
that the town must raise monies for "Clam Conservation" at town
meeting. In years past, monies from local, recreational and nonresident clam
licenses were added to the funds raised at town meeting and used for testing and
sampling and some enforcement. Flats were monitored and closed if necessary.
This year's $1000 added to last year's balance of $954.42, plus this year's
license fees do not add to a large sum but the commitment of the committee
that has been ongoing since March has been
considerable.
The clammers were joined
by interested citizens who brought
together a trio of Maine's experts on the subject
of clams to talk with the group. Peter Moore of
the Maine Aquaculture Innovation Center at the
University of Maine, Bill Mook
of Mook Sea Farm Inc. from Damariscotta,
and Brian Beal from the Beals
Island Regional Shellfish Hatchery arrived early
on May 9th and began the day with Introductions
and slides on their work. After lunch, a quick
sampling was taken around the Island by the excited
group. At one point, Brian Beal took the clam hoe
from Kevin Staples and dug in a ferment of bliss.
The experts ended the day with the distinct
impression that Swan's Island would be an ideal nursery for a program of
privately leased clam flats.
On May 23, the Clam Committee
sponsored a public hearing at the Odd Fellow's Hall. Brian Beal showed a slide
presentation that explained the hatchery
at Beals Island and illustrated the life cycle of
the clam, Mya arenaria.
Armed with the information about the clam and the leasing idea.
It was hoped that the public would ask the
selectmen to support the work of the committee. Shoreland
owners, selectmen and others were present for the discussion.
Mya arenaria starts life
sometime between June and September when the eggs and sperm are produced by the billons
and billions (and billions)
by the male and females. The eggs are fertilized
almost immediately and within
hours develop into larvae which
then spend a few weeks drifting and eating. They
then grow a swimming
organ but are still subject to the whim of the sea. Mya
arenaria transforms in many ways and then
grows a shell. It is still only microscopic when it has acquired most of the
organs like an adult. The clam's swimming organ degenerates and now goes to the
bottom to crawl with its foot. For sometime, the young clam walks the flats,
attaching itself by
mean of a byssus, or thread, and then detaching
and moving on If it so desires looking for a good place to live.
If she finds a spot to settle down and she has chosen well, say at mid-tide
in a sandy area and has plenty to eat, she will
get to be two inches in three years.
Of course nature and man are working
against her success. The green crab. birds, fish
and diseases, like "water belly", take a great number of clams. The
harvesting practices of diggers also contribute to a large mortality rate. The
clam hoe breaks many and those clams that are too small and that are left in the
wake of the clammer in the windrows
of mud, rarely survive. Simply walking in the
flats when the young are settling kills millions. Changes in salinity, erosion
and the action of ice on the flats also takes its toll.
Meanwhile, Swan's Island clammers are
also transforming. Committee members spoke about the need for diversification of
the fishing industry on island.
Ranquist has said that he himself
didn't particularly like to lobster, but rather felt more independent and wanted
to try something different. The potential to make a good living is there.
"If we don't pull it off, someone else will," Ranquist said. They
spoke about how incentive was the key to the success of the labor intensive work
of seeding and protecting flats: they recognized that the programs in some towns
down east that tried to seed their flats as a collective and volunteer effort
had failed because of the lack of incentive for the individual.
The clam resource has been considered
a public one since Colonial days. A shoreland owner owns to the low-water mark
but he does not own the resources within it. (The shoreland owner may not,
however, restrict access to his flats from the water.) The state has given the
selectmen, not the town, the authority over these areas. The state does have
some authority also over leasing municipal flats, so the clammer must have
state, selectmen and owner support for his lease site to work.
The owners of the shoreland would
have to give the clammers permission to use the flats for cultivation, but the
lease-holder would then own the clams he is cultivating. He will have his work
cut out for him. Natural predators and natural forces will be his constant
worry. Lease areas will be legally defined and mapped so that no one may claim
ignorance, so in theory, another digger may not dig on his site. All license
holders will be given maps showing these areas, and the information will be
published in local newspapers.
After a lively discussion and an
interesting question and answer period, the committee asked for a show of hands
of those present if they would ask the selectmen to support the committee. All
agreed and the selectmen were so informed. The 1908 idea of the cultivation of
clams being in the hands of the workers themselves had floated free once again.
Let us hope that in another 83 years it will have been well established that the
clammers of Swan's Island pull off a great old idea. June,1991
Island fishermen protest salmon farm expansion plans
Concerns about the expansion of a salmon farm spurred 75 people to attend a
meeting here last Thursday.
The concerns also prompted a petition
signed by 100 fishermen and area residents. It said the farm's owner,
Mariculture Products Ltd., needed to make a "further investigation,
assessment of community support."
The petition named five objections to
the farm expansion. It said territorial lobster and scallop fishing grounds were
being lost and that navigation was being obstructed in more than one area. The
petition also alleged that the Department of Marine Resources was not monitoring
the farm's salmon pens; the fishermen questioned the pen's environmental impact.
They also complained that Mariculture
Products was using town facilities and money for its own gain.
Finally, the fishermen charged that
fishing gear was being lost because Mariculture Products used non-caged
propellers on several vessels.
A spokesman for the company responded
to the concerns at the June 20
meeting.
Mariculture Products placed salmon
pens in Toothacher Cove in the fall of 1989 and recently began operations on a
new site at Frenchboro. Another site between Harbor Island and Scrag Island is
under development When fishermen recently found that Mariculture had designs on
a large site at Marshall Island, they began to protest, saying they were losing
fishing grounds.
At Thursday's meeting, Gary Arnold,
Mariculture's vice president for corporate development, said the company had
done more than any other to work with the people. The company kept open channels
of communication with the local fishermen's cooperative, he said.
Arnold was told, however, that the
cooperative did not speak for the majority of the island's citizens, only for
itself, and that there was little communication within the co-op.
Arnold acknowledged that. He remarked
that he had been surprised by the close vote last year to allow the company to
build a fish plant in Minturn at the Quarry Wharf. The proposal passed by one
vote. The company did not pursue the plan.
Swans Island is in the process of
using a Community Development Block Grant to rebuild the Quarry Wharf and to
build a fish-processing plant that the fishermen's cooperative will rent to
Mariculture Products. Some townspeople, however, question whether the town
should go that far for a company that, they say, represents a few paychecks and
a little tax revenue. Selectman Sonny Sprague said Mariculture rents two spaces
at the Quarry Wharf for $200 a year. The company also leases an area on the
wharf for $300 a month. The salmon pens are assessed for tax purposes at
$10,000. Last year, the company paid a total of $2,196 in taxes.
Of concern to a greater number of
people was the company's encroachment into fishing waters. Swans Island
fishermen have given themselves boundaries for their trap limit program.
Marshall Island, to which Mariculture hopes to expand, has prime fishing bottom,
but fishermen avoid it because it is within their self-imposed trap limit area.
A few fishermen lost areas in Toothacher Cove and Scrag Island to the salmon
pens, and the potential loss of 30 acres at Marshall Island raised some loud
protests.
The Thomas Lunt family, who owns part
of Marshall Island, was particularly upset with Mariculture's proposal. Other
people asked why the selection process could not begin by asking fishermen and
riparian owners before an application was submitted to the Department of Marine
Resources for a lease.
Arnold said Mariculture proposes to
raise some one million fish. For that, he said, the company will need four
sites. He said Mariculture evaluated locations around Swans Island and came up
with Marshall Island. Arnold said the company submitted its application thinking
it would not be acted on until 1992. That would give the company time to inform
the public, he said. Other companies, however, withdrew their applications for
leases around Maine waters, so Mariculture's moved up to second on the state
list. The lease site application process includes public hearings. People at
Thursday's informational meeting said Mariculture could have saved itself time
by asking the public for comments before applying for the lease.
On the issue of navigation. Arnold
said buoys had been placed with the help of island fishermen. One fisherman
noted that Mariculture had switched to using a different channel on the citizens
band radio. He asked that it return to channel 68 so fishermen would know what
the company was doing. Fishermen said that if the company had set routes for its
boats, they would place their gear accordingly.
Addressing questions about
environmental testing, Arnold said Mariculture's operation has been tested more
than any other site in the slate. He said the company will take part in a
two-year study to measure the effects of salmon aquaculture on the
environment. The Bangor Times, June, 1991